The West Cookbook

The problem with writing about food is that there is always a certain futility to it. As much as I'm a fan of the written word, certain things - sensual experiences - are too varied, too indescribably luscious for even the most lavish of adjectives.

Sunday lunch was an incredibly civilised and elegant affair at West for the launch of their new cookbook. The restaurant continually impresses with its impeccably synchronised and well choreographed dining experience. There is something almost balletic about its tight, artistic precision. This was the first time that I had met Executive Chef Warren Geraghty - he struck me as being very obviously talented, passionate, and youthfully enthusiastic.

I arrived to be greeted by canapes of roasted celeriac and truffle arancini (little balls whose crisp exterior give way to creamy risotto-ness), quail galantine with jasmine poached raisins, and tuna carpaccio with red cabbage and avocado mayo. -- all washed down of course, with some bubble (Sumac Ridge "Steller Jay" 04, Summerland).

What followed were four courses, beautifully plated and equally lovely on the palate.

Take the first course for example. The pickled celeriac, cut into small balsamic-dark discs, circled the plate with a slice of terrine playing centrefold. The sweetness of the apple, and the savoury quality of the goat cheese perfectly cut the richness of the foie gras. And of course, a mini brioche on the side because who doesn't love a little brioche with foie.

Terrine of foie gras, goat cheese and apple with pickled celeriac
Blackwood Lane Riesling 07, Okanagan Valley

Next, an ode to autumn harvest with two seared scallops with a slight nutty buttery lift to them. They were on top of a silky butternut squash puree, a remoulade with green flecks of cilantro, as well as precise butternut squash discs. And to add that final ethereal touch, there was a butternut squash foam spooned around the plate.

Seared scallops with butternut squash remoulade
Cedar Creek "Platinum Reserve" Chardonnay 06, Okanagan Valley

By the point I was quite full, but I managed to ease in a bit of the main, beef strip loin along with the woodsy taste of porcini mushrooms heightened with bacon. The pommes puree was so delicately textured that it almost disappeared in my mouth.

Pemberton Meadows beef striploin, fricasee of porcinis and bacon, pommes puree
Mission Hill "Oculus" 05, Okanagan Valley

And finally, and definitely not least, was a sherry poached pear with an absolutely insanely good pear and raison compote with maple roasted walnuts and tiger blue cheese - all encircled by a nest of phyllo matchsticks. I can't tell you how exquisite were the multiple combinations of sweet and salty ... as well as the play of textures, from the harder bite of the walnuts to the just there presence of the phyllo.

Sherry poached pear with pear and raisin compote, maple roasted walnuts, tiger blue cheese
Gehringer Bros, Riesling ice wine 07, Okanagan Valley

Post-script: petit fours - the chocolate ice cream truffle pushed me over the edge.

(If you want to recreate this experience at home, all the recipes are in the cookbook)